Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

August 5th 2020

A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...

Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)

Match in comments:
I didn't really, just washed them more! Wash them twice more and see what difference it makes...

StyleAugust 5th 2020

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

April 24th 2020

Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing...

Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit

Match in comments:
Navy serge, as here....

Suits - VideoApril 24th 2020

Video: How long should a jacket be?

March 30th 2020

This is the second in a series of videos in which we're looking at how a jacket should fit. The first one, here, was a summary of the basics on fit. In this second one, we look at the length of a jacket. This is the kind of thing that can seem like ...

Video: How long should a jacket be?

Match in comments:
There is a tradition that they should be a little shorter, but really I think that's been erased with the different lengths of jackets generally from different tailoring traditions now available. I'd say more the opposit...

Suits - VideoMarch 30th 2020

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...

March 16th 2020

The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...

Match in comments:
Probably not Dennis to be honest, the reception of them generally wasn't that great, and 90% of the questions I get are about classic cloths rather than seasonal ones, or new unusual bunches. There's probably a better ar...

ClothMarch 16th 2020

Video: How a jacket should fit

March 9th 2020

This is the first in a series of three videos in which I look at how a jacket should fit. In this first one, we cover the basics around the jacket - front, back and side. It's a useful summary of the main points, and applies as much to a high-street...

Video: How a jacket should fit

Match in comments:
I see. Thank you, Simon...

Suits - VideoMarch 9th 2020

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

July 1st 2019

This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...

A guide to high-twist bunches – 2019

Match in comments:
Well, the mills themselves won't vary much in quality, if you know that's what you're after. I haven't looked for mohair for a while though I'm afraid...

ClothJuly 1st 2019

A guide to linen bunches – 2018

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...

A guide to linen bunches – 2018

Match in comments:
Even if it's 4 years old, very helpful, this and the "Guide to Cloth" I mean. Thank you, Simon & James, especially for mentioning Dugdale. On their website I saw linen cloth with beautiful colors and patterns, it giv...

ClothJune 15th 2018

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

March 3rd 2014

Last week the sale was finalised of the W Bill and Smith’s cloth brands to LBD Harrison‘s. The company, run by Mark Dunsford, has been built on acquisitions, starting with Pedersen & Becker over 20 years ago and more recen...

W Bill and Smith’s sold: Mark Dunsford inte...

Match in comments:
Not really a football fan I'm afraid. Cycling, cricket and rugby, in that order...

ClothMarch 3rd 2014

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
There's no guarantee that a cloth from an English name will be woven in England unfortunately. But you don't usually want Dormeuil, not being English, and you want to look at Dugdale, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Fox, Smi...

ClothApril 15th 2013

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

January 11th 2012

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

Match in comments:
You're right, that is a good rule of thumb. Like most rules I'd consider it for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of… less wise men....

StyleJanuary 11th 2012

The coat project 2

August 21st 2009

My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the classic style of the coat, and it...

The coat project 2

Match in comments:
i like the style. a unique style good color combination. ______________ double breasted blazer...

CoatsAugust 21st 2009