How to pick buttons for a suit

June 14th 2013

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted...

How to pick buttons for a suit

Match in comments:
In my experience it's not normal, no, but I can also see some tailors thinking the customer might not have a particular preference. It's an easy thing to change if you ask them to...

SuitsJune 14th 2013

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
There's no guarantee that a cloth from an English name will be woven in England unfortunately. But you don't usually want Dormeuil, not being English, and you want to look at Dugdale, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, Fox, Smi...

ClothApril 15th 2013

Cloth offer at J&J Minnis

November 2nd 2011

Those that order their cloth themselves might be interested to know that J&J Minnis has a special offer on its website for the Crown Classic bunch, as it is being phased out. This is a lovely selection, weighing 320-350 grammes in a Super 10...

Cloth offer at J&J Minnis

Match in comments:
How much of this would I need to make a jacket? A pair of pants?...

ClothNovember 2nd 2011

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

February 17th 2010

CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...

Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors

Match in comments:
I would suggest you look at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as an English starting point, and probably not Liverano as that's very expensive. For Neapolitan, I'd suggest either Caliendo or Ciardi...

Reader questionsFebruary 17th 2010

Skip the basted or the forward fitting?

February 15th 2010

I recently commissioned my third single-breasted suit from my tailor*. At this stage my pattern for a single-breasted jacket is pretty much cemented. The balance works well, the sleeves have been adjusted to just the right length and small issues lik...

Skip the basted or the forward fitting?

Match in comments:
No, they can't really adjust the shoulder width at the forward fitting. Yes I would happily straight finish after the forward fitting, presuming I was happy with the suit at that point, and so was the tailor. The kind of...

February 15th 2010

The coat project 2

August 21st 2009

My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the classic style of the coat, and it...

The coat project 2

Match in comments:
i like the style. a unique style good color combination. ______________ double breasted blazer...

CoatsAugust 21st 2009

My first English bespoke suit

June 17th 2009

My tailoring is taking a step up in the world. I’m having my first English bespoke suit made. The tailor is Graham Browne, whom I have written about on this blog previously. They are located on Well Court, just off Bow Lane in the City. I had o...

My first English bespoke suit

Match in comments:
No I don't, generally. Double-breasted suits are usually made so that they are fairly easy to sit down in without undoing that button. But it does depend how the jacket is cut. If it's tighter, it can be less comfortable...

SuitsJune 17th 2009