My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

January 31st 2022

I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...

My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022

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Many thanks for that. I'm currently wearing in my new G&G Regent shoes MTO and I tell you, they are a pretty TIGHT fit but already mellowing. Leather stretches afrer all. Should be OK. Tony measured me after all....

Coats - JacketsJanuary 31st 2022

If you had five coats: A versatile selection

December 1st 2021

  As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth...

If you had five coats: A versatile selection

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Have you seen this post on overcoat fit?...

CoatsDecember 1st 2021

The jackets I picked for winter

October 20th 2021

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

The jackets I picked for winter

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I'd go with grey herringbone - see the article on a capsule like that here...

JacketsOctober 20th 2021

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

June 22nd 2020

A reader recently asked about what constituted the ‘finishing’ of a suit - and what indicates quality. I initially planned a response going through every aspect of this, with examples, but that quickly became unwieldy. There are just to...

Jetted pockets: Signs of a good finishing

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I would leave that up to the tailor to decide George, based on the proportions elsewhere. By the way, I assume you mean flapped as well, not just a jett?...

June 22nd 2020

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

April 8th 2019

Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...

The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano

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Some Neapolitans are bigger, certainly, but some about this size too. I certainly don't think it looks wrong or unusual on a Neapolitan jacket...

Jackets - SuitsApril 8th 2019

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...

February 20th 2019

  Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed   @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach...

Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simp...

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Great advice. Thanks for the ideas...

Style - SuitsFebruary 20th 2019

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...

November 26th 2018

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...

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Yes, they probably are, the shoulder seam can vary a fair bit with style (an extended shoulder) and with type of make (the backwards slope)....

JacketsNovember 26th 2018

Wearing warm and cold colours

April 4th 2018

Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality: Mo...

Wearing warm and cold colours

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Not really a shirt, but with a jacket I do. It's really just a matter of thinking what else (trousers, knits) it will go with, but you could think of it in terms of warm and cool. I don't really think about what's near t...

StyleApril 4th 2018

The roll neck

February 16th 2018

The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practical and very stylish; ...

The roll neck

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I think that could be nice Andy, yes. I think a black and white, or grey, would be the easiest and most versatile, but blue and grey could work too...

KnitwearFebruary 16th 2018

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

February 12th 2018

*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...

Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill

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No, sorry Daniel. I really recommend the Zegna cloth that Pommella sells though - have you seen that?...

Cloth - TrousersFebruary 12th 2018

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

January 5th 2018

I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it ...

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

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Hi Andrew, There are a few things I think it's worth looking at if you ever get a chance again - some of which I talk about in this article. The proportions of the lapel, for example; the real fullness in the back that m...

CoatsJanuary 5th 2018

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

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I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...

Black tie - CoatsSeptember 20th 2017

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

April 6th 2016

Florence is best known as a tourist destination in the summer – the Uffizi, the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio – and a menswear hub in January and June, when it plays host to the men’s trade show Pitti Uomo. But it has enough ...

Florence: A sartorial shopping guide

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Ready-made tailoring is not something I really cover on here Grant, sorry...

April 6th 2016

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

March 21st 2016

A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

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Great, thank you really much! :) Have a lovely Day Simon! :)...

JacketsMarch 21st 2016

Video: The Tailoring Symposium

January 5th 2016

  Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at ...

Video: The Tailoring Symposium

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Thanks Irv, lovely to hear...

VideoJanuary 5th 2016

The 10 Most Rakish Men

November 16th 2015

Nice to be included in The Rake Japan’s list of the 10 most Rakish men in the world, and alongside some lovely company. As ever, the Japan arm of the magazine is particularly geeky, and concentrated on accessories, collections and cloth...

The 10 Most Rakish Men

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Well deserved!...

November 16th 2015

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...

August 19th 2015

Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...

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Thanks Chris. There is a post covering it here....

August 19th 2015

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

June 22nd 2015

* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

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Yes it is, and of several other Savile Row tailors. Usually just on the back pocket though, given no buttons on the trousers are visible elsewhere. I always liked it as a small decorative touch....

June 22nd 2015

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

June 19th 2015

     “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleas...

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

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Not really, no.... Flannel isn't always great for a jacket, but more importantly this would be a very bold thing for a first commission (colour, DB, and 6x1 rather than 6x2) and I'd be afraid you wouldn't wear it that mu...

June 19th 2015

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

June 15th 2015

  Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more s...

Brio menswear store – Beijing, China

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I haven't tried Inglese enough (one shirt a long time ago) to really comment on other areas like fit...

Bags - ShoesJune 15th 2015

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...

June 12th 2015

At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...

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Sometime in the future it would be interesting to see a range of work from provincial Tailors. Some people who have posted on your Blog have alluded to this subject in the past. There are many talented people out there a...

SuitsJune 12th 2015

Vitale Barberis opens archives

February 18th 2014

Last week Vitale Barberis Canonico held a party at the mill in Patrivero, near Biella, to celebrate the refurnishing and opening up of its archives. It was a great event, and the archives have created a rich resource for designers the world over. Ale...

Vitale Barberis opens archives

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Lucky you, that's a pretty good team. Miss Yoshimi Hasegawa got a wonderful tumblr here -> http://yoshimihasegawa.tumblr.com...

February 18th 2014

The Rake opens London Collections: Men

January 7th 2014

This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night and the English G...

The Rake opens London Collections: Men

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I know Harry, yes. Not the others though...

StyleJanuary 7th 2014

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

October 2nd 2013

In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of cloth, colour and p...

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

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Thank you, I will go for a jacket and a suit then....

Jackets - StyleOctober 2nd 2013

Video on suits and their construction

September 11th 2013

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new MTM/bespoke initiative at...

Video on suits and their construction

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Thanks Simon. That looks spot on. Cruel though to send that video to an emigrant Irish man. Rory's accent is killing me. I'll be crying into a pint of Guinness tonight....

Suits - VideoSeptember 11th 2013