The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Probably yes Jack, that would be very heavy...
Smart/casual and high/low: How to dress like Oliv...
I was surprised when I realised we hadn’t ever featured Oliver Dannefalk in our ‘How to dress like’ series, given I’ve admired his style for years, particularly since he launched Rubato with Carl Per...
Smart/casual and high/low: How to dress like Oliv...
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Speaking of taller men, especially tall (let's say 185cm+) handsome men who comport themselves well in general - I believe they have a distinct advantage with artfully mixing styles in an outfit. Of course this is true w...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
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Have you seen this post on overcoat fit?...
Reader profile: David
This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. It's wort...
Reader profile: David
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I know i am sounding like a broken record but the reader profile..another well dressed young man....keep it up!!!! Peace...
Reader profile: Manish
Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. So one of the nice things ab...
Reader profile: Manish
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Revisiting this after the most recent article on wearing pink, and that semi formal outfit is pure class Manish - such a great combo of tones and items on that outfit!...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton to Gieves, P Johnson to the Armoury. And really good made-to-measure is increasingly what younger re...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Oh no, sorry, I mean a washing machine, no need even for a delicate setting. Hand washing is really only needed for knitwear and materials like silks...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts. This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure piece, from Saman Amel, but in a ...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
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I'm not sure to be honest Mullinan, as I prefer ones without colours really, like this or the Rubato version. If I were going to have colours, I'd probably go with dark and simple, like navy and green perhaps....
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...
Which brands do we cover, and why?
Now more than ever, I think it’s important to say what we stand for at Permanent Style. And one of the ways that comes across clearest is our editorial policy: what we cover, and what we don’t. Implicitly, this defines our values. It re...
Which brands do we cover, and why?
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Thanks Markus. I don't think it's so much a question of location - the Italian tailors I use, and brands I respect, would also not fit that tight or short. And many English brands go for the tight/short look. Good point ...
Postcard from Stockholm
So here's the weird thing about Stockholm: nothing is weird. Everything feels normal. No one wears a mask, and while there’s still social distancing, it's minimal and feels almost like politeness. People do sanitise their hands frequently, an...
Postcard from Stockholm
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No, sorry Stefan, it’s never really been a focus of the site. I also don’t usually have the money to spend on luxury places!...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise a point that’s often mi...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
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They would be great Kyle. Wear in warmer weather in the same way you'd wear grey flannels - with white, navy, dark brown, black...
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps looking at a few out...
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
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Good morning..Jamie is having fun ...being well dressed..bravo!!! Peace...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
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I would certainly he hesitant about playing with the proportions too much, MK, at least until you've worn it a fair bit. Also, if it's a straight cut like that, don't ever just taper the waist. If you want it more shaped...
The polo shirt under knitwear
I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...
The polo shirt under knitwear
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Spread. I find it sits better myself...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman...
The lack of a coherent dress code in modern offices does not mean men will wear tailoring less. It just means they have more choice. And Saman and Dag find that their customers are both bankers dressing down (not in a suit, but not in a polo either)...
Video debate: The future of tailoring, with Saman...
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Thank you very much for immediate response!...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
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If you haven't already, can I recommend Aero Leather in Galashiels as a place to try out a bespoke-style experience for leather jackets. They have a wide array of leathers - their double-sided goat suede is particularly ...
Saman Amel knitwear: Review
Fit is the most important aspect of clothing. It’s something I’ve always believed and it bears repeating. Quality is perhaps next, and you need style in anything, but fit is criminally ignored by most men - usually in favour of some pres...
Saman Amel knitwear: Review
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Saman Amel is more standard, Luca Faloni more unusual in its buttoned front. That design works better with a shirt, but personally I prefer the more standard style....
Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...
This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bruce Boyer (and part ...
Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...
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Yes, texture is certainly important, but pattern where you can will make the biggest difference to avoiding that look - in jackets but also in shirts. Try a bolder patterned striped shirt like an awning stripe for exampl...
Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review
It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will have, and bad even if it&...
Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review
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Thank you, that helped a lot....
Brands need to talk about product
There are several ways to define the menswear world we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. Also as luxury, given such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, and should be more in my opini...
Brands need to talk about product
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Well, my main point was, that the quality is often not there. I don't have an issue with paying a premium price for a premium product, but I won't pay it for an average or even below average product. Here's an example: R...
Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a moder...
Good trunk shows pick good locations. Not necessarily fancy, but convenient and in a space that shows the product in a good light. This is particularly true with ready-made or made-to-measure brands, where customers are more likely to compare them t...
Saman Amel – Classic tailoring with a moder...
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Hi Dave, If you can, I would try on a Ring Jacket piece at the Armoury, then go see Saman Amel and see what they have, and see which style appeals instinctively. Both offer great products - and it sounds like you won't c...
