My shirt collars

January 27th 2021

  When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...

My shirt collars

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If that were the issue, you'd probably have to replace the collar Stephan, I don't think you could just take the fusing out...

Shirts - January 27th 2021

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

July 24th 2020

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

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Well, if someone were looking straight at you from behind, they should just see your legs disappear under the skirt of the jacket, without anything connecting those legs together. It's that angle that's most important re...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 24th 2020

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

January 10th 2020

Let me set the scene. Macclesfield is a small English market town, and it’s a grey day. The bright-green casentino overcoat of Benedikt Fries, as he walks towards us, rather stands out. Photographer Alex Natt and I are watching him approach f...

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

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Great article. A breeze of fresh air and a good distraction from day to day screen printing technicalities. As a screen printer, I would like to see a part 2, diving more into the technics used to achieve such beautiful ...

Hanks and scarves - TiesJanuary 10th 2020

The dark shirt

August 26th 2019

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman. If done right, though...

The dark shirt

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Yes, it isn't dark - fairly rich, so I wouldn't put it with that many other strong colours, but it's a nice shade. Not so much of a fan of the tiny buttondown collar, but that is more trendy these days...

SuitsAugust 26th 2019

The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with...

December 21st 2018

  The starting point for any decision about what shoes to wear with an outfit, is that they should be darker than the trousers. So with a charcoal trouser, a black shoe or very dark brown. With a mid-grey trouser, dark or mid-brown (below). ...

The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with...

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Of course, I agree with the usefulness of this site and I thank Simon for it, but what i meant reffered exclusively to the colour that in my opinion is more a question of taste. Shoes must be darker than trousers, this i...

Shoes - StyleDecember 21st 2018

The summer tie

August 17th 2018

I don’t tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary red...

The summer tie

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I don't have any cotton ties I don't think, but I would feel they'd be less necessarily summery, and cotton/silk even more so....

Style - TiesAugust 17th 2018

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...

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For suits really, or trousers. I wouldn't wear any of the high-twists like this (fresco, crispaire, fox air etc) as separate jackets...

Casual clothing - ClothJuly 25th 2018

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...

March 26th 2018

  This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bruce Boyer (and part ...

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...

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Yes, texture is certainly important, but pattern where you can will make the biggest difference to avoiding that look - in jackets but also in shirts. Try a bolder patterned striped shirt like an awning stripe for exampl...

StyleMarch 26th 2018

Permanent Style, Shibumi and Bennett Winch at Ves...

December 26th 2017

For all those coming to Pitti in January, there will be a display of some Permanent Style products at Sartoria Vestrucci on the Thursday, followed by drinks. Luca Avitabile will be there, offering wholesale on the Friday Polos, and I will be helpin...

Permanent Style, Shibumi and Bennett Winch at Ves...

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Around four weeks?...

December 26th 2017

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in ...

December 15th 2017

I’ve noticed in the past year that a lot of my favourite ties are from Shibumi. They’re always on the end of the rail; they always get picked up first. Yet I haven’t written about them for quite a while. Having Benedikt (below) in ...

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in ...

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I don't think it really matters, unless you have actual logos/crests, or unless you're going to somewhere very old-fashioned, like a member's club...

Shirts - TiesDecember 15th 2017

The Pop-Up Shop is back!

November 1st 2017

I'm very excited to say that the Permanent Style Presents pop-up shop will be back this winter, opening in two weeks on November 15th. We've switched approach slightly, using a slightly smaller space but staying open much longer (5 weeks) - so hop...

The Pop-Up Shop is back!

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Yes, we have most of the remaining pieces in the pop up....

November 1st 2017

Video: How to look after your suit

October 21st 2015

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it all] They are p...

Video: How to look after your suit

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How wide should such a "wide-shouldered" hanger for suits be?...

Suits - VideoOctober 21st 2015

Fun with flowers: wearing a buttonhole

August 10th 2015

I like wearing a boutonniere – or buttonhole – on more formal or celebratory occasions. Mostly, I think, because it is another opportunity to play with colour. Having come up with a pleasing combination of suit, shirt, tie and ...

Fun with flowers: wearing a buttonhole

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That sounds good on the overall outfit, but yes I'd be very concerned about the strong red and green. Much better to have one of them more subtle...

StyleAugust 10th 2015

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

July 20th 2015

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patch pockets to make it c...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

Match in comments:
Cotton chinos are the easiest, certainly. Then denim. I'd say cord next, then linen but only on sunny days. Cav twill is a little hard and my cream flannels hardly get worn at all. Good question!...

Jackets - ShoesJuly 20th 2015

Green, shantung, club (tie)

July 16th 2014

Dark green is a subtle and versatile tie colour. You’re not surprised I think that, right? After all I sing the praises of green at every opportunity. But broad truths bear repeating. With an outfit like the one above, navy would be the s...

Green, shantung, club (tie)

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They're a little informal for a suit, but in a dark colour perhaps with a slightly more casual suit, like a flannel...

Style - TiesJuly 16th 2014