An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
Long-term readers will be familiar with my passion for Hermes silk scarves, which I’ve often bought over the years as a treat, and of which I now have a small collection (nine of them, since you ask). I’ve found particular enjoyment thi...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
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Thanks for that, Simon!...
Reader profile: David E
David is an example of a reader that has been into clothes for a long time, and now looks back on it from the perspective of a professional and father, fitting that interest into a life that has changed dramatically. A resident of south-east London...
Reader profile: David E
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I see your point, but it also seems like you wear them in a very limited amount of occasions, or at least very limited for me as I don't go to church and I don't go to the opera that often, so it would leave me with the ...
Playing around with white bucks
During sunny weather in the past few weeks, I've been playing around with these old shoes from Lodger, the shoe shop that used to be on Clifford Street in London, and where I first started writing about menswear . The shoes were a recreation of a 1...
Playing around with white bucks
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I called Alden in Massachusetts on 16 February 2022. The woman stated that they are not making the white bucks because they cannot find the leather. I got an email from Crockett & Jones who stated that they will have...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’m roasting and can barely wear a jack...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
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Yes I do...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
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I didn't really, just washed them more! Wash them twice more and see what difference it makes...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capac...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
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If it’s a dark green, yes...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest c...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
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I'd marginally prefer linen, but this cotton is nice, yes. The problem is there's a huge variation among cotton materials, from very coarse to very fine, and different finishes. I've never found another I liked quite as ...
Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...
Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...
Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...
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It is the case, and I'm afraid we aren't planning any, no...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...
What I pack when I travel
As I return from two summer trips – one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples – it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, an...
What I pack when I travel
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I highly recommend the unlined Duke from EG. Supremely comfortable and stylish, if you like a more classic / robust shape than B&L and something more substantial than the Polperro. I have a lovely biscuit coloured pa...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
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I'm afraid I don't know any Terence, sorry. I really only know Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples well...
Wearing black (in a sports jacket)
I recently remembered these shots we took last year in Japan - it was September, but Tokyo was hot and humid, as Europe has been in recent weeks. Although wool, the checked jacket is 9 ounces and half lined, wearing pretty cool. It was a useful piec...
Wearing black (in a sports jacket)
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It was about black in the pattern, rather than being completely black. To be honest I'd avoid a black jacket. It will make bold colours and patterns look stronger if anything. Grey is best at neutralising those. And navy...
Cavalry twill for trousers
Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy. The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many cottons, particularly garment-w...
Cavalry twill for trousers
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I have had a grey, but found it a little cold and dull. I'd go for an ecru or something with just a little brown/beige in it, like this...
Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits
As mentioned in my original post about this reader competition, our aim was to explore the different forms formalwear can take today. Men will always have a need to dress up, in order to appear appropriately for a smarter, more important and more f...
Huntsman dinner: The reader outfits
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I wore my Cleverley imitation brogues. I don't think there's anything wrong with Oliver's trousers - they are just breaking a bit more at the front as a result of how he is standing. I also wouldn't go with turn-ups, bot...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy piece, so I thought I would ...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
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I will take that into account. Thank you, Simon....
Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues...
A style post today, after several product and profile pieces in recent weeks. To break it down into bullets: I love grey shirts, primarily with navy suits or jackets as an alternative to white and blue. It feels urban and modern The problem is, wit...
Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues...
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The greys have generally been linen (for summer) and brushed cotton (for winter). Both this D'Avino one and my Simone Abbarchi winter one are from Sictess...
Colour combinations, from casual to formal
The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes ...
Colour combinations, from casual to formal
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No, sorry, though they did shrink noticeably. I actually ended up giving them away...
Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours
There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportions...
Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours
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I think it would look great in either, and no, I really don't think a cut always looks better in any particular fabric - just different. Eg a fine worsted is more formal and arguably suits a sharper cut. But there is som...
Which office are you? (Or, a sliding scale of for...
Dressing well is as much about propriety as it is about style, quality or personality. This is particularly true at work, where there are often prescriptions, or at least expectations, about professionalism and clothing. I have often talked over ...
Which office are you? (Or, a sliding scale of for...
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Hey Henry, Sure, happy to help. If you want to be cooler in tweed, then first of all go for something in perhaps 11oz rather than 15oz. You can then have half lining (buggy) or even less, though this will make a relative...
Scarf outfits: Solito, Cifonelli, Anderson &...
Several readers asked what I was wearing in the video we produced recently for Begg & Co scarves. So here they are, one by one. In the jacket shots, above: Navy cashmere jacket by Solito. Not a great level of finish, but one of the most u...
Scarf outfits: Solito, Cifonelli, Anderson &...
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The stitching can be a little loose and irregular - I've had linings come loose for example, though they were then repaired. And buttonholes etc aren't that fine...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at ...
Video: The Tailoring Symposium
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Thanks Irv, lovely to hear...
Checked jackets and accessories
This was taken during a recent photo shoot for Plaza Uomo magazine in Sweden. I think the only time I have shown the jacket before I wore it open-necked (blue shirt and navy crew neck, with charcoal trousers). It is not an easy pattern to accessor...
Checked jackets and accessories
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The green plaid is 9/10 ounce I believe. A little too light, as you say, but I really liked the design. The navy cashmere was a touch heavier...
Luca and Luigi in New York
New York will be getting its first visit from shirtmaker Luca Avitabile and tailor Luigi Solito in a couple of weeks, which I know will be welcome news for readers that have watched their pieces on PS for the past couple of years. Details are bel...
Luca and Luigi in New York
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Fused. As noted elsewhere, it's what I prefer...
Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket
This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on with everything: with a shirt ...
Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket
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No I haven't, sorry...
Five tips on bespoke suits
The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors. But a reade...
Five tips on bespoke suits
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Okay, hopefully, it will get better. Thank you, Simon....
